Blk Rs Mettalic said: Just tested yellow wires with a multi meter.
I assume the yellow wires at the Starter Interrupt Relay we talked about above.
Blk Rs Mettalic said:I'm getting .02, -8 & -9.
^^
I have no idea what the heck you mean by this. I can't figure out what
you saw, what points the test meter leads were on, what you're
measuring. Just gibberish to me.
Blk Rs Mettalic said Using the test from the Haynes
manual, the neutral safety switch is good.
^^ If you're measuring at the Starter Interrupt Relay, this point in the circuit is NOT testing the "Neutral Safety Switch".
Read
this thread again. And then again. And maybe one more time after that.
I've gone over everything you need to know. You haven't answered even
ONE of my questions. Like is the darn SECURITY light still on after 2 seconds after you turn the key to IGNITION. Not even "Manual or Automatic" transmission. I know its an automatic, because I saw the brake pedal.
I told you how to query the CCM and read the codes for VATS. What did you find? You can also see the CCM output for the starter interrupt relay. Is it enabled, or disabeled? It's in there.
You seemed to have CCM and ECM confused. You found a "blinked" Code 12. But the CCM doesn't "blink" codes. So I think you were querying the Engine Control Module, not the CCM which has the PASS-Key and starter interrupt in it.
In my post on the 13th, I told you what the wires for the key pellet looked like, and to look for signs they are bypassed. In the pic above, lo and behold, I see the "2 white cloth covered tiny wires" that have the resistor jumped between them. So yes, the key pellet HAS been bypassed.
I tried. If you can't understand what I'm trying to write, or if I'm not being clear, than I failed at trying to help. This isn't rocket science. The car has pretty much everything needed onboard for diagnostics. I've tried to get you to use these aids.
There's little doubt in my mind I could fix this car in 10 minutes. Electrical diagnosis is a process of elimination, and devising 'tests' that the results keep bracketing where to look. I'm really, really, really good at 12V electrical in general. And really good with C4 electrical. But now after a week, and many, many HOURS researching and typing these posts, I'm giving up. I tried. I'm frustrated by your inability to follow my lead, and answer the questions I ask.
Hopefully you can find someone that understands your 20 year old car's systems. Especially when its been hacked with aftermarket installations like yours has been. That work under the dash is butchery. No wonder it's giving you problems.
Parting shot: I told you to cut open the tape on the yellow wires from the relay. DID YOU? There could be a bad butt splice in there, causing ALL your problems. Wouldn't be the first time aftermarket installation butchery caused grief.
Good Luck. I tried.
Dave