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Topic: Running rich

in Forum: C4 Engines


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Running rich (1/20)
 5/18/14 1:08pm
cco
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Joined: 8/16/2013
Posts: 191

Car runs fine with decent mileage but blackens the exhaust pipes after only a few miles.

 No smoke, no CEL -- why the black pipes so quickly? 

Gas is from my regular station and runs fine in my other cars.

'94 LT1 Auto with only Corsa exhaust.

Any input would be appreciated.

C.

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Re: Running rich (2/20)
 5/19/14 1:55pm
cco
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Now it's running rough and my mileage is down.

Starts ok, just runs rough like it's misfiring. Blackens up the pipes quickly too.

Not sure if it's Optispark, wires, or plugs so I'm guessing that's a good place to start.

24k miles and has had best of care from original owner.


Any help would be appreciated.

C.

Re: Running rich (3/20)
 5/20/14 4:52pm
cco
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I understand that this might be as simple as a temp sensor -- which one might that be and how to test it?


C.

Re: Running rich (4/20)
 5/20/14 10:45pm
Adams' Apple
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I would suggest pulling codes. Just because the CEL is not on doesn't mean it doesn't have codes. Might also pull some plugs and have a look-see.
If it starts and runs fine when cold, it may be a temp sensor, but it could also be leaking injectors. So many possibilities...codes would be the place to start.


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Re: Running rich (5/20)
 5/21/14 12:22pm
cco
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Adams' Apple said: I would suggest pulling codes. Just because the CEL is not on doesn't mean it doesn't have codes. Might also pull some plugs and have a look-see.
If it starts and runs fine when cold, it may be a temp sensor, but it could also be leaking injectors. So many possibilities...codes would be the place to start.



Thanks Joel -- Is this the suggested procedure?:


 http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

Re: Running rich (6/20)
 5/21/14 1:39pm
396c4
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Temperature sensor will mess it up if it thinks it's really cold when it isn't (and scan tool or Autotap would be best to tell you what the ECM is seeing). I've even heard bad or corroded contact is common but if that's OK , check the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator is not getting vacuum or the regulator is faulty, it will keep the pressure too high which will leads to rich condition because it's not compensating for manifold vacuum.
Or, if the EGR is not working properly, that will cause rough idle and other issues.

You can test both with hand held vacuum pump although you also need pressure gauge on the fuel line.


|UPDATED|5/21/2014 10:39:04 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Re: Running rich (7/20)
 5/21/14 8:22pm
cco
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396c4 said:
Temperature sensor will mess it up if it thinks it's really cold when it isn't (and scan tool or Autotap would be best to tell you what the ECM is seeing). I've even heard bad or corroded contact is common but if that's OK , check the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator is not getting vacuum or the regulator is faulty, it will keep the pressure too high which will leads to rich condition because it's not compensating for manifold vacuum.
Or, if the EGR is not working properly, that will cause rough idle and other issues.

You can test both with hand held vacuum pump although you also need pressure gauge on the fuel line.





Thanks 396...no scan tool for my '94 system AFAIK -- have to read the ECM another way.

Bad or corroded contact at the ECM? and exactly where is the EGR -- as you know room and accessibility is at a premium around the engine..


Took one plug out and as expected it was black as Toby's A$$.

C.

Re: Running rich (8/20)
 5/22/14 6:21pm
cco
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Also need to know where to find the temp sensors mentioned.

Thanks.

C.

Re: Running rich (9/20)
 6/1/14 6:01pm
cco
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After tests, scans, and head-scratching: it's running fine and no more "rich" .....  (no codes either)


I'm chasing a ghost.

C.

Re: Running rich (10/20)
 6/5/14 8:34am
396c4
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Could be connection problem on the temperature sensor. Bad contact  or sensor could make it think the engine is really cold and so make the mixture rich. Look on the head on the passenger side. The EGR is at the very back of the intake manifold roughly where the distributor used to be.

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Re: Running rich (11/20)
 6/5/14 8:08pm
cco
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Thanks, 396 --

C.

Re: Running rich (12/20)
 6/20/14 5:49pm
cco
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connections seem fine but how do we know they're actually making contact.


Problem returned briefly for a trip of about 10 miles. (Blackened pipes and fan on unneeded) - so I'm guessing that it's a temp sensor problem that the CCM is reading and trying to compensate for.


  I parked and did a scan for codes and found:


Module 1:  C-12

Module 4: H-63, H-77, and H-78

Module 9: H-72


C12: I've read is current but indicates all ok.


The H codes are history codes and not current.

I recorded the codes and did a reset for the codes and CEL -- drove it the next day and seems fine again. No black pipes, no CEL, no roughness.

Can't find anything wrong.


C.

Re: Running rich (13/20)
 6/21/14 7:39am
davep85c4
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History Codes mean the paramaters to set them are not currently being met. They not be "old" at all. Many PCM codes require the engine to be running to be Current, so when querrying the CCM with the Key On Engine Off, the codes will show as History, but with the engine running may change to Current.

Your Module 4 PCM codes are

63 = RF H2OS Open. Oxygen Sensor.

77 = Fan Control, Low Speed
78 = Fan Control, High Speed

The fan codes are set by the control line being opposite of what the PCM is commanding. Ie if the line is expected to be Hi (fan off) but is in fact low, the code will set, and vice-versa. If you have manual controls for the fans that over ride the PCM, these codes will set.  No biggie, they don't turn on the CEL , nor are any actions taken by the PCM.

I would clear the codes and see if they come back. If there is a jankey O2 Sensor, that could be the cause of intermittent black smoke, poor mileage, and drivability. If it acts up again, then look for codes again. If 63 resets, replace the RF H2OS.

The Module 9 ASR/ABS Code 72 is Serial Data Communication Link failure. Reset it too. This code when it sets turns on the Service ASR light. So you'll know if it sets again by that indication.


HTH. But if you know how to use the CCM to get all this, you already know what the codes mean. You're the first person I've seen on here use the CCM diagnostics to pull codes. Coolness, isn't it?


|UPDATED|6/21/2014 4:39:11 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Re: Running rich (14/20)
 6/21/14 4:59pm
cco
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davep85c4 said: History Codes mean the paramaters to set them are not currently being met. They not be "old" at all. Many PCM codes require the engine to be running to be Current, so when querrying the CCM with the Key On Engine Off, the codes will show as History, but with the engine running may change to Current.

Your Module 4 PCM codes are

63 = RF H2OS Open. Oxygen Sensor.

77 = Fan Control, Low Speed
78 = Fan Control, High Speed

The fan codes are set by the control line being opposite of what the PCM is commanding. Ie if the line is expected to be Hi (fan off) but is in fact low, the code will set, and vice-versa. If you have manual controls for the fans that over ride the PCM, these codes will set.  No biggie, they don't turn on the CEL , nor are any actions taken by the PCM.

I would clear the codes and see if they come back. If there is a jankey O2 Sensor, that could be the cause of intermittent black smoke, poor mileage, and drivability. If it acts up again, then look for codes again. If 63 resets, replace the RF H2OS.

The Module 9 ASR/ABS Code 72 is Serial Data Communication Link failure. Reset it too. This code when it sets turns on the Service ASR light. So you'll know if it sets again by that indication.


HTH. But if you know how to use the CCM to get all this, you already know what the codes mean. You're the first person I've seen on here use the CCM diagnostics to pull codes. Coolness, isn't it?




Yes it helps mucho, and thank you Dave. Still more or less groping in the dark with the '94 but coming along slowly (with a little help from you kind guys).


Yes the 77 and 78 codes will be because of the manual fan control. I was warned that there would be codes and a history. As you say: no worries.


Looks like we've found the cause of the issue: RF O2 sensor.  Will get my man to order one in for me. I understand they're not as expensive on the C4's. I'll probably do both sides if so.


BTW, you say " H2OS "    -- is that the O2 sensor you're referring to?


Again thanks for the help. Yes it's fun to get involved -- I love it.


Cheers

Colin.

Re: Running rich (15/20)
 6/21/14 7:16pm
davep85c4
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Yes. The "H" is for "heated".  I use the same acronyms and terms as the Helm's manuals do. Keeps confusion, and non-recognition of unfamiliar terms to a minimum if I call things the same names as the factory manuals and parts fiches do.
Re: Running rich (16/20)
 6/21/14 8:43pm
cco
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Cheers brother -- My man will get me the O2's I need and all will be fine again.

C.

Re: Running rich (17/20)
 6/22/14 3:28pm
cco
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Posts: 191

Filled car today and I'm thinking that I may be filling up the tank too far causing overflow into the recirculating system and subsequent CEL's.

Is this possible and is overfilling something to avoid?


CEL came on for a few minutes on a short journey (after filling) and I could fell the engine run a little roughly. Within a miles tho the light cleared and the engine smoothed out and seemed to run fine again.


Came home and did another scan and this time found both H63 and H64 codes had set.


DTC 63 -  Bank 2 (Right Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Open Circuit)

DTC 64 -  Bank 2 (Right Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated)

 

I reset the codes again and will see what returns. I'll also let the fuel run down somewhat to see if the problem returns. I suspect that it won't.

O2's coming soon anyway.


Thanks for the continued help.

C.



|UPDATED|6/22/2014 12:28:11 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Re: Running rich (18/20)
 6/24/14 8:35pm
cco
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So we've narrowed it down to O2's and the fault code has directed me to RF, which suggests that there are 4 sensors.

I have read thru the FSM's and can't find the exact section describing the O2's -- just various exhaust and header parts.


If someone can direct me to the right section in the FSM's I'd appreciate it and if anyone knows the number of O2's on my '94 LT1 I'd appreciate that too.


I do have a 7/8" (22mm) Crowfoot wrench and wondering if that's the right size for my '94 P2's.


I also understand that they O2's are plug and play once I change them out.


Thanks

Colin.


EDIT:

Found it: '94 FSM, 6E3-A-1 and there's a diagram on 6E3-A-5


Looks like there are 3 x O2's and there's some discussion that the rear one is unused until '96 (OBD-11).



|UPDATED|6/24/2014 5:35:40 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Re: Running rich (19/20)
 6/30/14 10:36am
cco
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Found the section in the FSM -- and ordered an 02 from Amazon (bosch).

FSM says there are 3 02's

Found the electrical connection at the RF 02 to be loose. Connected properly and all is well again (so far). Have 02 and tool JIC.

Thanks for help.


C.

Re: Running rich (20/20)
 7/8/14 8:44am
cco
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Installed new Bosch 02 and all is well once again.

It took a while to maneuver the old one out and the new one in but overall a fairly straightforward fix.


Thanks for all your help guys.


C.

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