Corveddie said: I'll take a stab at this. I have a 1994 convertible that I have owned for 14 years, has just shy of 70,000 miles. It is mostly original, and I have a few car show trophies, so I guess I must be doing something right.
The paint - I clay it every other year, alternating with a machine polish. Wax of your choice. Presently I am using Griot's Paint Sealant, an artificial wax, and Eagle 1 Wax-as-U-Dry to spiffy it up between full waxes.
The convertible top - If you want to keep it perfect, NEVER PUT IT DOWN! Most wear and damage occurs where the top folds. Use Ragg Topp cleaner and Ragg Topp vinyl top protectant.
The flimsy rear window - can't help you there, I have a glass window. However, plastic window cleaners and polishes have been around for decades, and Ragg Topp makes a kit for that too.
The weather seals - GM used to sell a silicone compound for that. I haven't used it in years, messy.
The dash - I use a dry dusting wipe and give it an Armorall treatment once in a while. I prefer low gloss Armorall, but I don't think that's available anymore.
The console - See above
The door panels - See above
The carpeting - Get door sill protectors. I have footwell liners, but I don't think they're available for your year. I just vacuum the carpeting.
The various plastic switches and buttons (which I assume get brittle with age) - Same as for the dash. The only parts I can recall replacing were the seat back lever bezels, and that is so common that a guy used to sell custom machined replacements.
The leather sport seats so they don't crack (NO cracks right now!) - I have used a few different cleaners and conditioners. I have heard that Lexol dissolves the stitching. Get in and out of the car chick style, sit on the seat with your feet on the ground, then swing your legs into the car. People who insist on getting in one foot at a time destroy the outer bolster.
What kind of cover should I buy to protect it when parked outdoors for long periods - My car has been outside for extended periods, and I recommend a Typhoon cover available from Mid America Motorworks. It is completely waterproof, gives good physical and UV protection. Since it is not porous like most other covers, it has vents. My only complaint with it is that I wish it extended lower, you will get some rain splash on the lower extremities.
You already mentioned the coolant, coolant system cleanliness is very important in the LT1.
Have you checked the condition of the tires?
Corveddie
Thank-you, Corveddie! I apologize for the late response today - I didn't get an alert that your posting occurred, and have been a little too busy to get to the site til today!
I did check the tires before buying the car. They are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires, with virtually no tread wear at all, and a manufacturing date code of October 2010 (2.5 years ago).
I also have already had the brake fluid changed, since I had no idea whetehr the previosu owner had ever done that or not, and even though the fluid did not look milky. The Carfax report showed the differnetial fluid being changed a couple of years back. The coolant looks clean, but I plan to change it anyway since it is so critical for corrosion protection, and because here in Austin, Texas, the daytime highs are already now mid 90s but will soon reach 105+.
Yesterday, I also replaced the battery. It was starting the car just fine every time, but I noticed that when the car was at a body shop to perfect the positioning of the driver side window, and later at Brake Check to get the brake fluid changed, both times the door and/or hood were left open during the service and both times the battery needed a boost to start the car afterwards! I guess the previous owner's regular exercising of the car was not enough to keep that battery from getting discharged by the computer, etc, and thus losing its reserve capacity over time. I replaced it with the best battery that the auto parts store offered.
I'm going to ask a friend who owns a large transmission shop whether I should also flush the automatic tarnsmission fluid, despite the low miles on the car, just ebcause of the age of the fluid, and not knowing if it has ever been changed in the 21 years.
I do use that "chick" style of entry and exit, since ebsides protecting the carpeted sills, it also encourages me to NOT put weight on the steering wheel, which apparently over time destroys the u-joint in the tilt steering wheel, AND it's a lot easier to exit that way.
Couple of questions for you:
1. What leather treatment other than Lexol do you recommend for the leather seats?
2. What door sill protectors? (I would prefer sills that use either exisitng fasteners in the sills, or that do not require fasteners instead using a simple friction fit, since i hate to add holes to a car.
Jim G
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