A fully rebuilt motor with less than3k miles.

I'm not authority so being noone else has responded take this with a grain of salt.

Be VERY cautious of hitting the starter on an engine you suspect may have cylinders full of liquid gasoline with the plugs removed. If there IS liquid, it may spray out with force, and be ignited by the loose plug wires.  Could ruin your day.  And your car and garage.

My idea is below:

If I'm right, you won't need a breaker bar once you pull the plugs to break it loose.  If one or more cylinders is full of or has a bunch of gas in it, that's what is preventing the engine from turning over (the engine can't compress a lot of raw gas without bending rods etc).  Once the plugs are out it should turn over just fine (if it's a hydrolock issue) and spit out a lot of that gas that's preventing the engine from turning over.  Just be careful so you don't get a spark or flame near it or you could have worse problems.  If the issue is gas in the cylinders, get out what you can  turning the engine over then leave the plugs out for the last to evaporate unless someone has a good alternate way to get it out

Pull the coil wire or whatever to prevent the engine from generating a spark to reduce the chance of a fire.  Have a big bucket of water or a fire extinguisher on hand and preferable do not do it inside a building.

Just thoughts

Paul

|UPDATED|4/20/2014 4:37:28 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Put a socket and ratchet on the alternator pulley nut. With the plugs removed, it will turn over easily with this method.

Alternator or the harmonic dampener?  I would expect the dampener nut to turn the motor over.

Plugs out and hydolock relieved of pressure by turning crankshaft with a breaker bar.

Ever worked on a C4? I have. Lots of them. The balancer is right up against the "wonder bar" and there is very limited clearance to get a bar or socket on the balancer bolt. The fan motor is in close proximity, and it's a long reach. I don't like to scratch or damage anything when working on cars. Using the balancer bolt to turn the engine over in a C4 is a PITA, any you're likely to scratch something.

I suggested the alternator because it is very accessible, and offers a 4:1 ratio on the crank which makes it very easy to turn the engine over with the plugs removed.

It was not a mis-guided suggestion. It was made by someone who has been working on C4's regularly for 30 years.

Very very limited room...since the pressure was relieved it turned easily.Thanks Dave ...got any idea on the "why" this happened...I haven't pulled the injectors out yet or checked rail pressure, was just too much fumes and raw fuel.I am letting things air out/dry out now.

That's one I would not have expected.  Never thought a fan or serpentine belt would hold enough to turn over and engine, plugs or no plugs.  I can only say I bought my C4 last year but about 50+ years working on my cars and trucks.  Come to think of it, never had to deal with rolling one over except on an engine stand and there wasn't any belts on it at that time.

It works because of the 4:1 ratio the alternator has over the crankshaft.  Especially with the plugs removed.  Sometimes this method only works in one direction, because in the opposite direction, the tensioner loosens the belt tension causing slippage.

Never the less, this is still easier than trying to get a set-up on the crank bolt with the engine installed in a C4.

surps are tuff and transfer power well, to turn over the motor with a socket you will need a long handle 3/8 ratchet and a short 5/8 socket, or use the alternator nut and you might need to stick your thumb to add a little pressure on the belt.

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found the bucket grommets for my 2002 headlights on ebay

ENOUGH OF THE BELT ALREADY !!    was an injector or 2 stuck wide open  I GOTTA KNOW

Sorry to inconvenience you with useless knowledge. next time you might want to run some sea foam in the fuel, to help prevent injector failure. 

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found the bucket grommets for my 2002 headlights on ebay

I started the thread...I was interested in the info, somebody else made the belt comments.

If the Bosch III's only lasted 500 miles and caused problems, why are you predisposed to go with them again?

"2 year old gas" isn't the problem. Perhaps fuel line corrosion caused by modern ethanol gas being left to sit for two years in steel lines never designed for ethanol did. The junk from the lines got into an injector or two and caused them to stick open? But why did the 'junk' affect them? Don't Bosch III's have inlet screens?

I've owned a dozen engines with Bosch EV1's. Mostly C4 Corvette, Syclone and Typhoon. Some of these vehichles sat for years at a time without being started, and sometimes 5 or more years without gas being added to them. I have never experienced a 'stuck open' injector condition that caused gas in the oil. My 85 sat for 8 years without being started, then one day I twisted the key, and fired it up. Those injectors have never been off the engine. "Bad gas" and all.

I am not postulating that the 'bad gas' wasn't the cause of your problems. But that there is a difference between the way Bosch III's and Bosch EV1's tolerate it. Your Bosch III's puked after 2 years, My Bosch EV1's never have in 29+ years of experience. So I'm questioning the wisdom of going with the III's again. Hobby-cars, and project cars tend to sit for prolonged periods. Ethenol gas is something we have to live with. If an injector isn't tolerant of injecting decomposed ethenol fuel, it will cause undue hassle and expense. Like you're experiencing now, and I never have.

At least have Jon take a look and evaluate what happened. I'd be curious to know.

The mechanics of "what" happened are simple. For what ever reason, one or more injectors got stuck open, or were not completely closed when your son parked the car at his work with a full tank of fuel.  The fuel rails are lower than the top of the fuel tank, and fuel will drain out of the injector by gravity into the engine. This will only occur with about 1/2 tank or more of fuel. Or the car parked nose-down on a slope. The fuel tank also tends to build positive pressure while driving, and if parked in the sun. This positive pressure accelerates any seepage by a weepy nozzle.

The white smoke is indicative of a stuck-open injector. So when he shut it off, fuel immediately began to drip into the engine. Being a 96, you have OBDII. OBDII monitors each bank's O2 sensor. An engine running rich enough to exhibit white smoke should have set some codes. Not all OBDII codes illuminate the CEL, so that is not an indicator. If there's been less than 50 ignition cycles since the occurrence, any codes set should still be in memory, even if the battery has been disconnected. Might be interesting to check. Plus you'd know which bank's injectors to more fully scrutinize when you get them out.

Something made the injectors bind up. Or got in them to jam the nozzle open. The sequence I see from your posts is that it fired up and ran normally after a 2 year hibernation, but the problems cropped up the following day after the car was back in service. So I suspect corrosion debris that built up in the steel lines between the filter and the fuel rails, and the aluminum fuel rails was ingested by the injectors after the engine was running a few hours.

I know Bosch III's are used extensively on Fords. I don't participate on any Ford forums other than Powerstroke.org, and Powerstroke Diesels don't have Bosch III's, and I have no anecdotal input myself. But it would be interesting to know if Ford owners have issues with their Bosch III's similar to what you have experienced.

Again, I would be curious to know what Jon's input is.











|UPDATED|5/4/2014 2:59:33 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Dave...he started with a full tank of fuel...old fuel.