I was really impressed with the detail class. Really learned alot and thought the products worked well. The products are called gloss it. The nice thing they have the main store here so easy to get what you want. They have stores all over the country and are willing to put on classes. Unfortunatly to get the swirls out you have to use a machine (know you didn't want to do that] and it kind of vibrates instead of spinning. Goiing to try the system out in a couple of weeks so I'll post when it's done. Someone will have to give me instructions on how to post pictures as noy smarter than the computer

I think I would do the following before I use any machine that vibrates, spin's, grinds, or goes up and down.

OH one more thing, A lot of these so called detailing classes are just opportunities for these people to sell inferior products, SOOOOOOOOOOOO be-careful.

Went out last night with the extreme cut and an applicator pad to my truck with some bad marks on it. Used the system by hand and about 60% of the marks came out. I can't wait until next weekend to use the buffer with the system to see if i can remove more. If that works the vette is next. Will keep you posted and try to learn how to post pictures

I own Corvette Detail Center in San Antonio, TX.  I have been detailing Corvettes for 10 years now.  I find buffing swirl marks extremely difficult to remove.  I use a De Walt buffer with wool bonnets to remove the swirls.  After determining the degree of abrasive necessary, assuming the most aggressive I use is warranted, I use a white wool bonnet with 3M compound with the DeWalt at about 2000 RPM covering a 2ft sq area at a time.  Next comes the De Walt buffer with a yellow wool pad and 3M FinesseII set at about 2000 RPM, doing the same 2ft sq.  Next comes 3M Glaze using a foam glazing pad on the De Walt at 2000 rpm on the same 2ft sq.  Then comes Ligui Tech  synthetic polymer using a Porter Cable with a foam polishing pad at about 1800 RPM on the same 2 ft sq.

I never use anything containing wax.  The synthetic polymer shines does not wear off, melt off, cloud or lose shine.  Repeated applications only require the Porter Cable treatment and the additional coats increase the depth of shine and add additional protection as the synthetic polymer bonds with the original clear coat finish.  The initial process does take anywhere from 8 - 10 hours!


Anyway, the important thing about the shine on your car is the initial preparation, that is where the shine comes from, the paint itself.  A dull paint job can not be made to shine with wax or anything else.  All you will have is a nice looking dull Corvette.  Take the time and make the preparation count!

Hey Dude (I think thats a Texas word), Sorry it I hurt your feelings about using machines on VETTE's but you are so wrong, yes you could take the lazy way and and buff, grind ,shake, rotate, sand, and make funny noises BUT why would you? Everything sounds about right if I didn't know better and went to a shop that Pablo and Pedro were running. But why?

No offense taken; too each their own.  There is nothing wrong with doing detail work by hand,  In fact, I buff out the vehicle by hand my self. 

BUT, anyone who thinks that Corvettes have a special corner on the paint market is living in a dream world.  Corvette paint is not the best in the world but far from the worst.  And anyone who thinks that current model buffers are a detriment to Corvette paint is smoking, well...not tobacco!

In my 10 professional years of detailing all makes of vehicles, from 4X4 Fords to Escalades to Lexus to Mercedes, I have never had a single customer complain about the finished product.  And I am working at capacity without utilizing any mass advertising whatsoever, all customers being referrals of some sort.

Cars I finish are swirl free in any light, day or night, sun or artificial!

I agree that everything will wear off eventually, even the clear coat and paint itself...given enough time and no attention!  However, in Texas with 100+ degree heat and even higher road temperatures, using wax and you are lucky to have any left when you reach home.  And, if you do, believe me, it will be gone by the following weekend and you are out there doing it all over again.  On the other hand, polysmear as you call it (reflecting your lack of understanding the basics of the new technology), will not only get you home, it will be there for you for months and months (forever, as far as the basic paint and clear coat is concerned).  Believe me, I know, as I apply additional coats for a deeper shine and greater protection on about 75% of my customers and I know what kind of shine they have, day and night!  The other 25% must live in New Jersey!

Anyway, thanks for the input and your opinion.  But as I said earlier, to each their own.

Interesting discussion, but....let's keep it friendly, folks.

Sorry,  Adam; did not mean to offend or distress.  Agree 100%!

HH

Interesting opinions, but I still submit that using the Porter Cable ( or another QUALITY buffer) has given my car's a much better appearance than I ever achieved by hand.   Using any buffer the right way, at the right speed, with the correct pads is the key, regardless of what brand product you use, wax or polymer,  IMHO .  I received some great instructions from Adam (of Adam Polishes) at Carlisle,  and the car looks even better now.  To each their own, but I'm firmly in the machine camp,  I personally can't match the quality finish I'm getting mechanically doing it by hand.