Topic: Air only comming out of the windshild defrostor
in Forum: C4 Cooling and Heating Systems

I have the same problem. Dash vents don't blow air but defroster and foot vents do work. My cruise control also works. I have replaced the check valve under the passenger side fuel rail. I have read it is the AC Programmer vacuum leak due to the soft nipples and tried to fix it.
Ok this morning I attempted a repair for my dash vents that are not working. I studied previous posts everywhere and went in somewhat prepared but apparently not prepared enough. Please help. First of all I didn't find exactly what I expected. Previous post talked about pulling a push nut to get it released from the firewall. Well upon removing the lowest sheet metal lag bolt it was free? Upon examination I clearly see the 5 vacuum lines connected to the distributor type connector but I didn't see the soft nipples probably because I didn't pull them off nor did I remove a push nut from the center (if it is there). On the other side I saw a cardboard type back and was able to photograph the other side with my Galaxy S3. The whole thing looked like it had enough slack to be pulled down some (from both the electrical cable on the top and the vacuum lines) but I didn't have enough space to clear the hard vent and the steering column. Couldn't see how to remove the vent so I thought I'd stop and ask for advice. Looks to me that I not the first one in to this thing. What do you think, please examine the photos below and advise in some detail. If the links don't work then copy them into your browser.
Thanks.
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/AC%20Programmer%201024%20by%20768%20110539.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/AC%20Programmer%20Inside%201024%20x%20768_112614.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/AC%20Programmer%201024%20by%20768%20110539.jpg
I fixed my first one a few months ago. There are several ways to do it. Corvette Forum has a gillion threads on this 96-only issue. I ended up cutting the lines off the connector inside the controller. I drilled out the block so 5/32 vacuum hose would go through the block. I put (5) 6" pieces of hose directly onto the colored hard lines within the controller, and passed them through the correct holes in the block. (so I'd know which one was which). I cut off the connector in the car, and put each hard line into the respective vacuum hose extension.
It took an afternoon to accomplish, and the mode doors work properly in this car for the first time in at least 8 years.
I don't recall if I removed that hard duct in your pics. If I did, it was easy, because I don't recall any fussiness.
I did remove the electrical connector to be able to get it low enough to access the nut in the center of the vacuum connector. The threads on CF make this out to be bitchey, but I didn't have trouble with it.
What makes this a 96-only problem is that the material for the vacuum fitting nipples on the 96 controller is very soft. Over time, they suck shut, and no vacuum flows. The 90-95 controller has hard nipples that don't collapse under vacuum.
One of the other fixes is to trim just the tip of the nipple off, and remove the portion that blocks the flow.
Another fix is to insert very fine tubing (I was thinking of 18ga wire insulation) into the nipples to keep them open.
|UPDATED|8/25/2013 9:47:19 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Please email or call me so that we may discuss this further. "jlagaipa@yahoo.com" 732 413 0337
joe
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/ACProg1.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/ACProg2.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/ACProg3.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/ACProg4.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/ACProg5.jpg
http://collectiblesandhobbies.com/ACProg6.jpg
I love the text explanation on how to repair the programmer. Pictures certainly would be helpful, but it appears that http://collectiblesandhobbies.com no longer exists. Thanks for the effort. 1996 Torch Red LT4 Convertible.