Topic: Z6 transmission question
in Forum: C4 Driveline Components
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I have a 1992 vette with the 6 speed. I was wondering if I have an issue or just a normal 6 speed that I'm just not used to. First corvette with this in it so I'm new.
I notice when I'm stopped in first then take off and try to shift when the rpm's are lower, the trans doesn't like going into second. Not until I hit 2000-3000 RPM. Not sure if this is normal or what?
Otherwise it shifts fine, no slipping or any other issue to note. If that is even an issue.
I notice when I'm stopped in first then take off and try to shift when the rpm's are lower, the trans doesn't like going into second. Not until I hit 2000-3000 RPM. Not sure if this is normal or what?
Otherwise it shifts fine, no slipping or any other issue to note. If that is even an issue.
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Thanks a bunch, I'll look into that. Glad to hear it's normal. I can tend to be a worry wort with new cars lol.
This was a cheap, low rent, trailer park fix for GM to meet EPA mandated MPG ratings. This forced you to shift like your Grandmother to save gas. Typical GM. Oh, it's located underneath next to the tranny. Might want to invest in some low rider ramps.
I'm more a fan of Mid America Motorworks. Looks like they are a little cheaper. CAGS 6-Speed Skip Shift Bypass, 1989-1995 http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette/product/cags-6-speed-skip-shift-bypass-plug-1989-1995-603699-1
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Blacksburg, VA - USA
Joined: 4/4/2011
Posts: 7
Vette(s): *1990 ZR-1 black on black #0543
*1993 Coupe pologreen LT1 6 spd
*1993 Conv red LT1 6 spd
*1980 Coupe red L82
92lightbullet said: I have a 1992 vette with the 6 speed. I was wondering if I have an issue or just a normal 6 speed that I'm just not used to. First corvette with this in it so I'm new.
I notice when I'm stopped in first then take off and try to shift when the rpm's are lower, the trans doesn't like going into second. Not until I hit 2000-3000 RPM. Not sure if this is normal or what?
Otherwise it shifts fine, no slipping or any other issue to note. If that is even an issue.
I notice when I'm stopped in first then take off and try to shift when the rpm's are lower, the trans doesn't like going into second. Not until I hit 2000-3000 RPM. Not sure if this is normal or what?
Otherwise it shifts fine, no slipping or any other issue to note. If that is even an issue.
Even easier fix - just remove the CAGS relay. It will give you a trouble code, but much cheaper and easier than installing a skip shift plug.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 3/18/2009
Posts: 2246
Vette(s): 1985 Coupe-L98/Auto,Bright Red/Carmine.
1974 Coupe-L48/4speed, Medium Red Metallic/Black Deluxe.
You can also just unplug the dang connector on the trans.From what I've seen, the "Cags Bypass" things you can by are nothing more than connector covers, to keep dirt and stuff out of the connectors once you unplug them.
Another way to get around it is to just keep yer foot in it!
The skip shift was the solution that allowed the cars to pass the EPA fuel mileage requirements, but it was/is the torque of the engines that allowed it to be done. Lesser engines would puke if you tried to shift from 1st to 4th at 18 mph....
Another way to get around it is to just keep yer foot in it!
The skip shift was the solution that allowed the cars to pass the EPA fuel mileage requirements, but it was/is the torque of the engines that allowed it to be done. Lesser engines would puke if you tried to shift from 1st to 4th at 18 mph....
Joel Adams 
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Thanks everyone for the replies. Drove it tonight and after everyone
mentioned the whole 1 to four thing I noticed on the dash it will light
up "1 to 4" when it wants me to do that. I'll have to mess with it
tomorrow or when it gets warmer out. Love GM and their little work
arounds lol.
As stated just unplug it and cover the plugs with tape. You can also have the prom reprogramed to eliminate it.
1991 ZR-1 # 118 SW Headers/Corsa-3:73 gears-Haibeck-510HP/350 1993 ZR-1 # 179 Yellow/ White- Haibeck tune, Flowmasters 
Easiest solution I have found for this, on my '91 is, just to be going faster than 15 mph and it slips easily into 2nd. Was a mystery to me too until I discovered that 16 mph was the trick.
The other mystery was why it would not even crank, until I discovered you have to have your foot full down on the clutch, I had put it in neutral and no sign of life, thought I was in for some expensive tow to the mechanic.
So far no other mysteries, but if anyone can indicate any other things let me know.
I will also add, I took my '91 to have new tyres ( when I purchased it last September it still sat on its original from the factory rubber, at 22,500 miles ). I handed the keys to the mechanic and off went my baby.
A few minutes later the mechanic returned with bad news, the rear brakes were locked on and they recommended they would need to disassemble and fix that whilst the wheels were off.
Now this seemed strange to me because I had driven the car to them without any sign of a problem. I asked if they would show me the problem, they agreed, so I went into the workshop and sure enough the rear wheels would not turn.
I asked the young mechanic if he had disengaged the hand brake, and all of you will know how the hand brake works and you all know by this point what the problem was, yes he had no idea how the hand brake worked, and had not released the hand brake.
I guess I had some sympathy for this young mechanic because this hand brake system was an orphan of GM from the 70's and 80's, and I had experienced it Australia on my HQ Holden, so I immediately knew how it worked the moment I first used the hand brake on the '91.
I must say I hate the foot operated park brake on modern cars with a passion , and would much prefer the " hand brake ".
in Forum: C4 Driveline Components
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