Hey guys flandy here, I had my 96 LT4 out about 3 wks. ago, got back in the car and turned the key, and nothing, just a click.  I think it could be corrosion on one of the terminations.  Just wondered if anyone had this expeience before, I'm going back to WI. today, I'll check the battery terminals to make sure they are tight, if they are, time to jack her up and check the wires at the starter.  The headlamps were functional, but might not have had proper volts or amps at the starter. Thanks in advance-Phil

Could be a connection, or it could be a starter solenoid. Check all the connections first, then see if it will crank if you jump from the large, center terminal on the solenoid, to the smaller terminal located closest to the engine block. If the connections are nice, clean, and tight, but it will crank when jumpering it, then you prolly have a problem with the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter...
Sometimes, the firewall pass-thu can get corroded, and create problems like this. The pass-thru is on the driver side, under the brake booster area. It is where 90% of the wiring to the front of the car passes thru to the interior.

it might just be dirty battery terminals or even a bad battery. with the cars these days it can happen very easily. a few years ago i bought a used suburban and it ran great. went to the store and came out and just clicked. lights were functional and bright and would take a jump. had it towed to dealler and it turned out the battery was shot. most of the time i have found it was dirty connections on the terminals. hope it is an easy fix for you.

  Thanks Eddie, I'll be looking into that today-flandy

Hey guys and gals, flandy here,  I'm just looking for a little info on changing out the battery on a c-4.  It looks like on my 96, that I have to move the ecm and cruise servo to get at the battery.  Has anyone done this, and do you take the nut off of the captive fatener and remove the electronics or just loosen for access?  Thanks for any respnses-Flandy

You'll have to take the battery out from the side, not the top. You'll have to remove the fender/gill panel. There are 3-4(?) torx screws from the wheel side, and two 10mm head bolts, one on the top, and one on the bottom, at the rear of the fender, by the door. All of the fasteners are easy to get to except the one on the bottom of the fender. You have to look between the rocker panel, and the lower edge of the fender to see the bolt. Once the fender is off, the battery slide out the side. Some folks have cut a notch in the lower bolt hole on the fender to allow the bolt to be loosened and the fender slide past it, instead of having to remove the bolt completely.
hth...I don't have any pics of that area...
Adams' Apple2009-09-14 16:56:36

on my 90 i have to take out the screws of the inner fender skirt and there is a 10mm nut on top by the door and then ther is a 10mm nut in a small opening in the rocker panel. take out the screws and the nut on top completely and loosen the one in between the panel and the rocker and that whole panel will come out giving you full access to the battery. pretty easy.

one thing i just thought of is there might be spacers on the top bolt and the one in the rocker. make sure you look and if there is make sure you put them back.
eddie208902009-09-14 17:00:54

Hey guys, Flandy here, I just wanted to thank all that posted replies to my 1st and 2nd posts.  It's just as good a group as the c3vr site with a lot of familiar names.  So, thanks, and take care-Phil

n/p phil thats what this is all about helping out each other. did you happen to find out what the problem was? not telling us if it is fixed is like watching and mystery on tv and falling asleep right before they tell you whodunit.

    Thanks to all, well, I just put a new battery this A.M., went from an off the shelf plain-Jane one and put in an Interstate group 75. 

the Bad-Boy popped right off.  Thanks every one for the assist, by the way, changing a battery in a C4 is a royal P.I.T.A