I have a 91' with the l98.  I went to start my car the other day and the battery was dead. (Some small draw somewhere yet to be determined)   After a good 6 hours of charging I went to try it again.  All the lights on my dash came on, the heater started running, everything as normal.  When I went to turn the key over all the way, nothing happened.  Almost the same as if you weren't pressing the clutch in.  When the key is turned over you can hear that it cuts the power out to the heater fan, and the "Brake" light on the dash comes on, then goes out when you release the key, and then the fan starts running again.  I also notice the "security" light stays on steady as well.  I have checked all fuses and they seem to be fine.  The car is equipped with the VATS bypass switch by Mid America.  Any insight would be really helpful.

May be an issue with the bypass, so I would make sure it is connected well. Next would be to check the connections at the battery, and then the starter. A loose/corroded connection can certainly cause this.

|UPDATED|12/23/2011 10:53:05 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Ok, Thanks.  I will give that a try this afternoon.

Everything seems to have good contact.  I am afraid that there is something wrong with the VATS, I have read nothing but horror stories about it.

A friend told me to jump the diagnostic link to show the codes and I did.    This is what the LCD said:

C= Current code
H= History code

Ignore the C12...it just means the system is in diagnostic mode.

C53 = System over-voltage (current)
H53 = System over-voltage (history)
H46= Pass Key system

The system over-voltage may have been set when you had the charger on it, but it should not still be over-voltage just turning the key on to pull the codes...unless you had the charger on it then, too.

Since you have a VATS bypass on it, that could possibly set a Pass Key code in history, but....the car won't start, so, that would be the place to start diagnostics. Have you tried to unplug the bypass, and see if it would start that way?

Have you checked ALL of the fuses...as in with a test light or ohm meter?? I know you stated you had, and "They seemed fine".
It certainly sounds like a Vats/Passkey problem....

Here's the basics of the code, and a flow chart(for what it's worth).

http://www.c4vetteregistry.com/member_uploads/12501_12600/12573/91code46.jpg

Sounds like battery. Did you have it load tested? When you turn the key and pull in the starter that load is big enough to drain eveything else unless there is enough power in the battery. Do you use a Battery Tender? Old batteries don't like to be discharged and I've had a couple not hold any charge once they've discharged. (Also why I use an Optima yellow top).

|UPDATED|1/4/2012 6:45:53 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks for your help. I ended up getting a VATS bypass module which cleared up the security issues. A bit of a pain getting the CCM out and making the connections to the new module, but well worth it to hear my car start up and run again. Thanks again.

THAT'S the understatement of the year!!!
Glad ya got it running again, anyway!