the top module is what is in my 90. also if it stock distributor, coil is in the cap. as joel said you have to use the pack of grease that comes with it. if not there use diselectric grease. make sure both surfaces are clean and spread a thin even coat. just another tip--make sure if you replace the coil (or even if you don't) that the secondary ground strap is installed. when i bought mine i was tuning it up and there wasn't one there. figured with the computers they figured out another method. WRONG. was having a lot of trouble and finally decided to replace the coil and in the box in bold letters was DONT FORGET TO INSTALL SECONDARY GROUND STRAP. a $2.00 part caused me a lot of headaches. without it it will burn out a module.

years back if the module went the car wouldn't run. newer modules seem to do as you are describing---act up and then don't, until they get to the point of no return. if you bring it to autozone they will check it for you but if you go thru the trouble of removing it, for roughly $25.00 you can put a new one.

hope you can figure this out and if you need anything let me know.

dave

well i am back to working on the 90 still wont run when it heats up. have checked everything that has been mentioned in this thread. still no codes even had the code checked at a shop last week replaced the whole distributor with the same results. i feel it has to be electrical in some way. just i am so stuborn i want to find the problem, anyway the dealships here wont touch it and everyone i talk to gives me the same things i have allready done.

Oh, come on. This is the classic multec injector issue. The second post in the thread describes the multecs, and describes how to check them.

So, Have You Checked Them? Go buy a $5 meter at harbor freight, and do it.

have a meter and all injectors read approx 16 ohms, did notice that several of the wires to the injectors looked like they had been repaired and electrical tape covering the repairs, aybe i should untape and check these repairs.

Old school checks the fuel system first. New school - check the electrical first. Seems odd to me that you would loose 8 injectors at once and you appear to have been through the distributor and the battery. That leaves me with one more, obvious and mostly over looked link ... grounding. If the battery ground is good and I assume it is with the battery change, I'd be checking the other end. Your manual will tell you where the major ground points are but the one that bolts to the (driver's side) bell housing has a bunch on a common stud, even though stud connections are "no-no" by most electrical standards. I don't know why GM doesn't add proper ground blocks. You might stringing some jumpers to see if that makes any difference. I've added ground runs from the bellhousing stud, MSD and data logging equipment directly back to a ground block at the battery to eliminate chassis/engine block issues and electrical noise. Only the starter relies on chassis ground. Good luck.