I have pulled the oil pan off the LT1 to replace the gasket. The last time I had an oil pan off a car was many years ago when the gasket set consisted of three pieces. A cork pan gasket and two rubber (?) crank seals. The one I received this time was a one piece molded rubber gasket. The instructions advise NOT to use a chemical adhesive on the gasket. On the old three piece gasket I would  freely daub the areas that connected the gaskets (the corners).
  Any one have experience not using RTV silicone on the newer gaskets. And if I did put the RTV on the corners, what may happen?

I wouldn't use silicon at all on a molded rubber type gasket. It would just slide right out, and negate the whole purpose. It would be best, if you really need anything, to use something like the Permatex Aviation Sealant, but only a small amount in the corners where the timing cover and rear main cap meet the block surface, then let it sit for a few minutes to get a little "tacky".
The one-piece rubber gaskets are pretty nice, and a lot easier to install.
Adams' Apple2009-04-07 19:17:35

Thanks for the response. No silicone it is.

Keep in mind; most of the warnings concerning chemical adhesives are directed toward "gorilla snot"  (the yellow 3M Glue), epoxies, or other hardening glues.
My intake gasket set actually came with a small tube of black RTV (silicone).

Prepping your surface correctly, and sparingly using a small amount of RTV to hold corners in place is OK in some applications.



Jim

[QUOTE=strats-n-vettes]Keep in mind; most of the warnings concerning chemical adhesives are directed toward "gorilla snot"  (the yellow 3M Glue), epoxies, or other hardening glues.
My intake gasket set actually came with a small tube of black RTV (silicone).

Prepping your surface correctly, and sparingly using a small amount of RTV to hold corners in place is OK in some applications.



Jim

[/QUOTE]

UH OH! Went to put the gasket back on and ran into a problem. I cannot put the gasket on the pan and then install it. The engine is still in the car and the clearance is so tight the gasket gets knocked loose. I have to put the gasket on the block first and then put the pan on. The problem is holding the gasket in place untill the pan is installed. I have to use something to hold the gasket in place on the block.

[QUOTE=txtode]UH OH! Went to put the gasket back on and ran into a problem. I cannot put the gasket on the pan and then install it. The engine is still in the car and the clearance is so tight the gasket gets knocked loose. I have to put the gasket on the block first and then put the pan on. The problem is holding the gasket in place untill the pan is installed. I have to use something to hold the gasket in place on the block. [/QUOTE]

What about grease to hold it into place?

If not; go to your local craft store and get a product made by Yaley called "Tacky Wax"....it wont harden and will melt away, it also wont harden cork or rubber products. It comes in a round little yellow container.
This stuff is in no way a sealer of any kind, its made to hold the little metal wick tab in place when making candles.
Place it on the outer edges (away from inside of engine) of the gasket and then put your gasket on engine....once again, gasket area prep is key for this stuff to stick.


GL




Jim

another old idea is to take sewing thread and tie a piece in several holes to keep gasket in place. after you start the bolts untie them and pull the sting out and tighten bolts. use to work great for me.

Both good ideas. Did the grease and carefully replaced without banging on anything. Worked like a charm. Figured I would do the grease first and if it didn't go so good would try the thread method, but didn't have to.
  Thanks for the ideas. When the weather permits will see if leaks are fixed.
  

These are both great ideas