Topic: My '88 cranks, runs for 5 seconds then dies
in Forum: C4 General Discussion
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We installed the pressure guage onto the fuel line and the pressure read 50-52 psi...we tried the starter and the car started and ran perfectly for 10 minutes or so until we shut it down. During that time the fuel pressure dropped back to mid to high 40's psi so I'm guessing my fuel pump is Ok
Tried starting again and it just cranked over...nothing more. Checking error codes at that point it showed a #46
My tech still thinks it a worn key cylinder/bad key pellet contact problem so we're going to replace the cylinder next.
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Vette(s): 1985 Coupe-L98/Auto,Bright Red/Carmine.
1974 Coupe-L48/4speed, Medium Red Metallic/Black Deluxe.
If there was a problem with the key, or cylinder/contacts, the engine would not crank at all, much less start and run. Also, the "Security" lamp in the dash would come on steady. This is not going to be your problem.
Since you have confirmed good fuel pressure, the next most likely suspect is the ignition module. A failing module will certainly act the way yours is....starts and runs fine for a while, then won't start again until it completely cools down.
Since you have confirmed good fuel pressure, the next most likely suspect is the ignition module. A failing module will certainly act the way yours is....starts and runs fine for a while, then won't start again until it completely cools down.
Joel Adams 
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
I am with Adam's Apple on this one........ Ign. module .
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Vette(s): 1985 Coupe-L98/Auto,Bright Red/Carmine.
1974 Coupe-L48/4speed, Medium Red Metallic/Black Deluxe.
Code 46 means that the VATs signal is not getting to the ECM(Engine Control Module). This would disable the infectors, and create a no-start. So....it appears that your tech might be on the right track after all. Strange that it will crank tho...
What this means is that the key and cylinder are prolly ok, but there is probably a wiring/connector issue between the VATs module and the ECM. Usually, if the VATs module does not see the correct value from the key pellet, it will not allow the engine to crank.
Behind RH Side Of I/P
What this means is that the key and cylinder are prolly ok, but there is probably a wiring/connector issue between the VATs module and the ECM. Usually, if the VATs module does not see the correct value from the key pellet, it will not allow the engine to crank.
Behind RH Side Of I/PJoel Adams
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Consider this:
The engine cranks indicating the VATS is OK. If the ignition lock assembly was warn out then maybe it's not able to maintain the electronic connection thus the engine doesn't start or stay running. But, the ignition switch is separate from the ignition key/lock assy. They too can wear and not maintain the electrical connection.
If I was to throw parts at it I'd change the ignition switch first. A $15 part similar to the Ford ignition switch.
The key/lock VATS assy is around $35.
I wouldn't think that the ignition control module is bad due to the symptoms but it could be. The moving parts (key/lock assy and ignition Switch) would wear out first.
Just my 2 cents.
If it isn't broke, I haven't fixed it yet....
i had an 2002 vw that did the same thing had it towed back and forth to several dealerships. still under warnity it was the chip in the key that caused the problem. this was a night mare. new key fixed. sold it . however i agree with adams apple. this man knows his stuff. anyways let us know what caused it.
Guys...thanks again for your interest and advice/comments.
We fitted the new key cylinder & wire today and she fired straight up, although it seemed to run a bit rich for a short while so I took her out for a short run to clear the cobwebs of 5 weeks of no activuty other than false starts.
I don't know for sure that the problem is fixed and I'm always going to be suspicious she might let me down but I guess time will tell....if I keep her that long.!!
John.
Woohoo! Now you get to enjoy that ride.
If you had the battery disconnected during the 5 weeks the ECM probably just had to relearn it's parameters. When you power down the ECM will not hold the settings, thus why it was rich for a time.
If it isn't broke, I haven't fixed it yet....
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Fingers crossed that that fixes it for good!
Joel Adams
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
in Forum: C4 General Discussion
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