Topic: My frickin car is falling apart.
in Forum: C4 General Discussion
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In the last 2 weeks my '95 Coupe has been pissin' me off. I have been fighting a fuel pump/fuel injector problem trying to diagnose without swapping parts.
Now today I was parking, rolled down the window an "clunk". Now the window won't go back up. Had to drive home in 105 degree heat with the windows down.
Time to get may hands dirty and get this thing back together.
Oh, and she needs a wax job too.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 3/18/2009
Posts: 2246
Vette(s): 1985 Coupe-L98/Auto,Bright Red/Carmine.
1974 Coupe-L48/4speed, Medium Red Metallic/Black Deluxe.
Ain't this FUN?!? 
It's always something with them, ain't it? Workin on the windows isn't the best job you could have to do, for sure....
It's always something with them, ain't it? Workin on the windows isn't the best job you could have to do, for sure....
Joel Adams 
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Gotta love these cars 
I thought I was beginning to have a fuel problem, changed the fuel filter, bingo. Was the original , only 38K miles but it was 14 yrs. old. Planning on buying new injectors from FIC in winter, among other projects What's happening with yours?
Hope the window is nothing serious, had to replace my driver side switch a few years ago, not bad but gotta follow FSM instructions or break something taking panel off.
I thought I was beginning to have a fuel problem, changed the fuel filter, bingo. Was the original , only 38K miles but it was 14 yrs. old. Planning on buying new injectors from FIC in winter, among other projects What's happening with yours?
Hope the window is nothing serious, had to replace my driver side switch a few years ago, not bad but gotta follow FSM instructions or break something taking panel off. My Wife asked why I needed to replace the seat rails for the drivers side. She weighs about #100. She adjusts it for her and when I get in the seat drops to the bottom. I only weigh #140. Hand me the debit card, new one on the way. "Kathy (Wife) don't ask", it is broken and I will fix it...Phil
Looks like the motor is shot. FSM says to take the whole door apart including removing window, regulator and motor. What a hassle.
I am going to try to replace motor without yanking the the whole thing a part. Sacred sh--less that I will break the window. I will let you know how I progress.
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Joined: 3/20/2009
Posts: 611
Vette(s): Black 1979 L-82
Black 1996 LT1
Black 1999 Coupe
I have a spare LT1....80k on it....removed to put in the built motor thats in it now.
Let me know if you need a donor...its has a custom built "cage" made for shipping. and the motor is still mounted in the cage and still wrapped in thick plastic and has been since removed.
Jim
Let me know if you need a donor...its has a custom built "cage" made for shipping. and the motor is still mounted in the cage and still wrapped in thick plastic and has been since removed.
Jim
I got the window fixed. Replaced the motor without pulling the whole window and regulator.
I just drilled right through the inner door panel and drilled out the 3 rivets, motor assembly came right out. It left 3 holes about 3/8" diameter that I covered with tape.
Used some 3/4" binding posts to remount the new motor in place of the factory rivets. These things have a very low profile to allow for clearance. One of the holes is inaccessible behind the gear, so I used a Dremel to grind a "slot" next to the hole and slide the head of the binding post into position.
Probably took me a little longer doing it this way, but I avoided breaking a bunch of other stuff disassembling the whole door, and I don't have to worry about adjustments.
The motor (with gears) was $65 NEW at the local auto parts store. Eklers wanted $379 for the regulator with motor. Saved a bunch of money.
Used some 3/4" binding posts to remount the new motor in place of the factory rivets. These things have a very low profile to allow for clearance. One of the holes is inaccessible behind the gear, so I used a Dremel to grind a "slot" next to the hole and slide the head of the binding post into position.
Probably took me a little longer doing it this way, but I avoided breaking a bunch of other stuff disassembling the whole door, and I don't have to worry about adjustments.
The motor (with gears) was $65 NEW at the local auto parts store. Eklers wanted $379 for the regulator with motor. Saved a bunch of money.
Now back to the fuel delivery problem...
and wax problem in Forum: C4 General Discussion
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