Topic: Addco Tubular sway bars
in Forum: C4 Handling Components
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Addco is making tubular sway bars for C-4's again! They stopped for quite awhile because apparently they couldn't get good round stock to work with. All the Vette warehouses discontinued the line. Now you can order them through Summit for reasonable. I ordered both front and back, but after month's wait, I've only received the reark one, (the front should ship beginning of the April) so expect some drop shipping delays if you want them.
First thing I noticed is how light it is compared to solid one. Nice black powder coat finish. I'm currently running heavy duty Vette Brakes ones that came with the sport spring packages so I'm expecting major weight saving up front with no downside. Install should be straight forward although I'll cut the off the stamped together eyelets and install rod ends. Otherwise I expect it should bolt right in. I'll have pictures when it's done if there's any interest.

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Got around to the front bar last weekend. Disappointed to find it also weighed only 5 lbs less than the solid bar even though it's a lot bigger than the rear. Rear measures 1.010 OD with 0.180 (0.690 ID) wall and the front is 1.263 OD with 0.250 wall (0.763 ID). Obviously picked up the torsional stiffness on the front.
I had cut the eyelets off the front solid bar, then drilled and tapped the ends for 1/2" rod ends. I expected to weld some tube adapters to the hollow bar to do the same but it's not going to be that simple. Addco pinched the tube closed and bent the bar right where you'd want to make the cut so it can't be done. The lever arms are a lot shorter on the front (compared to the back) so there's only a few inches of arm beyond the urethane carriers. I think the solution is to cut the hollow tube back a little further from the pinch point and weld in 3/4"x45 elbow with tube adapter to replace the factory bend. That job is going back on the list since it's installed with the eyelets and urethane bushings.
Good news is it's not a difficult install. With the wheels off, undo the 4 bracket nuts, the yoke bolts and out it comes from either side with a little twisting. Coating is a little soft and scratched a little on the bottom since I was doing it by myself. Should have taped the ends but it's not too bad. Also the carrier blocks are eccentric with the thick side mounted to the rear (pushing the bar forward).
Have yet to do the road test and that will wait till few other things come off this spring's list.

do these realy work???? will it help the handeling out..also where can you jack up the car to put jack stands under it on all 4 wheels. my manual just said to put the jack where indecated. would like some help on this so i don't damage the body..thanks
The bars work really well but you have to push the limits to get the benefits.
Jack points are on the frame behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheels where the frame runs next to the rocker panels. There are pockets at the back and frame rib at the front that I span with pieces of hard wood. Floor jack for the front works best on the cross member under the engine and but no good spot under the rear axle although I have fab'd different adapters to use the rear spring perch or strut brackets then place the safety jacks at the frame jack points but I have yet to figure out one a rear jack bracket I'm really pleased with. Maybe somebody else has.
I'd like to mount some air cylinders like they use on the ALMS cars. Be neat to put air to the car and have all four off the ground. Street car weight might make them a little heavy to carry all the time. There's a vendor at Carlisle that sells air lift system and has demo on a mid-year Grand Sport. Another project that needs more thought ....

cool, thanks for the jacking advise. the saw bars i think i'll get a set..yes and air lift system would be the thing to have.
in Forum: C4 Handling Components
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