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Topic: General Spark Plug Gap...And Why?

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General Spark Plug Gap...And Why? (1/4)
 4/25/09 8:27pm
Black Shark
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Black 1979 L-82 Black 1996 LT1 Black 1999 Coupe


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Ok...what year car do you have, what engine, ect...but....what do you gap your plugs at; and why?

Meaning; If you have excellent spark plug wires, a hotter coil, along with premium plugs...do you gap stock...or... do you gap a little wider knowing the coil,  and wires will throw more volts, and the premium plug can produce a better spark.

I have Magnacore wires, a MSD coi,l and new E3 plugs...but I want to gap the plugs accordingly.

1996 LT1-- 10:8.1 compression---bored, stroked, decked, milled heads, ported, w/splayed 4-bolt main....3/4 cam, roller rockers, and a few more goodies...

I seen dyno results using E3 plugs...I wanna know some variances.



Thanks,
Jim



BTW--the "3/4 cam" deal is an oldie...just had to throw it in!LOL
Becuase I have a full cam...no, a race cam, a street cam...an RV CAM!!!!!!Dead
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General Spark Plug Gap...And Why? (2/4)
 4/27/09 8:48pm
pkazsr
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I don't believe that the gap really makes a difference unless it is too great to make the spark. .035-.050 should work with any ignition system. And as an electrician, a 10k spark will ignite the fuel just as well as a 40k spark. I worry more about carbon tracking and shorts from the coil to ground...Phil
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General Spark Plug Gap...And Why? (3/4)
 4/30/09 4:21pm
Adams' Apple
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My belief is that you should run what the factory recommends. If the engine has been modified with heads/cam etc., then you might be able to modify the plug gap some, but not a lot. For most aftermarket electronic ignitions, I'd suggest finding out what the manufacturer recommends. Some of this depends on the physical limitations of the plug itself...not all will allow a wide gap without distorting the side electrode, and basically rendering the plug useless in high rpm situations. Firing a spark across a particular gap at idle is a LOT different than firing that same plug at higher rpms, regardless of the available spark energy. You have air/fuel turbulence, and timing issues to deal with, as well as combustion temps.
GM spends a ton of engineering time to determine what works, as do the aftermarket suppliers. Their specs are what works...go with that.  

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Re: General Spark Plug Gap...And Why? (4/4)
 1/7/12 8:24pm
396c4
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I'm going to resurrect this old thread because I'm about to re-gap my plugs top 0.060 per MSD as I'm running their coil, wires and MSD-6 programmable.  I'm going to disagree with the previous post a little to the extent that GM engineers set things up for the widest possible operating range to create the least number of operating problem , often at cross purposes to  where performance can be had. A good example is the ignition timing map. The 96 timing map above 3000 RPM is way off best power, probably to deal with the very worst gas available.
 
E-3 can't be gap adjusted because of the way they are constructed. Nor are they available in non-resistor type. (I called and asked) There is some reason to believe in the advertizing that they will improve the flame front  which could provide more timing and increase power. But!, if you've already re-programmed the timing near the knock edge, you've compensated away any possible advantage and it is likely to knock if the timing isn't re-adjusted. Nobody is talking about whether the flame front will provide more power with the timing optimized for either type of plug.
 
 As far as I can determine, resistor type plugs are made to increase the life of the plugs but that is of no concern to me since my car is driven so little annually and the plugs show no wear what-so-ever. They are more likely to be rusty berfore they wear out, especially since they are platinum tipped. So, why go to the trouble of adding coil, better wires and ignition with more voltage then reverse it with resistor plugs? So I run, non-resistor type which will help to reduce carbon tracking or other voltage leaks. BTW I don't have any radio noise either with these types.
 
Getting back to the gap, MSD displays at the track will show you air gaps half an inch wide and the ignition jumping that gap and firing just fine! I also know that blown nitro are run at half that of a regular gas engine gap but that's because of the outrageous amounts of fuel in the chamber and nitro increases the resistance across the gap. More gap means hotter spark, that's basic physics. The wider the gap the more energy it takes to jump the gap and the higher potential means the more likely the mixture is to be ignited. Interestingly, a spark plug is not a guarantee it will fire. Research engine technology explains it's statistical to some extent and a spark plug increases the odds in a particular location.
 
There is no doubt that the system from the coil to the plugs need to be in good shape but all the aftermarket stuff is more than up to the job. The weak spot seems to be if the spark plug boot touches the exhaust manifold or header. When that happens the boot material breaks down and it will short. The good news is the OBD II will tell me if there are issues and I've gone too far but I have to think this one is needs some basic drag racing philosophy, "more is better, and too much is just right" at least the right direction. We'll see soon.


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