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1988 (1/14)
 8/15/12 9:21am
Donald
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Indianapolis, IN - USA

Vette(s):
1988 Corvette convertable


Joined: 3/25/2012
Posts: 13

I WENT ON A DRIVE ABOUT 20 MILES. AT THE END WE WERE CAUGHT IN A TRAFFIC JAM ON THE INTERSTATE. MY CAR RAN UP THE TEMP TO 231 DEGREES THEN IT WOULD DROP DOWN TO 225 THEN BACK UP. IT DID THIS SEVERAL TIMES. ONCE WE GOT MOVING IT COOLED DOWN TO 202 AND I FELT PRETTY GOOD IT WAS OK. AFTER I TURNED IT OFF TO DROP OFF MY GUEST IT WOULD NOT START!! I HAD GOOD BATTERY BUT IT DIDN'T MAKE A SOUND. I WAITED AN HOUR WENT OUT AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP. I HAVE NOT HAD IT THIS HOT AGAIN AND IT STARTS AND RUNS GREAT. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM? WAS THERE ANYTHING FOUND WRONG IF YOU HAVE THAT I SHOULD CHECK FOR? PLEASE ADVISE.
 
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE I'M NOT REALLY YELLING I JUST STARTED TYPING AND WAS FINISHED WHEN I REALIZED I WAS IN UPPER CASE AND I DIDN'T WANT TO RETYPE ALL.
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Re: 1988 (2/14)
 8/15/12 5:09pm
Silver Slyder
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Ormond Beach, FL - USA

Vette(s):
1996 Corvette Collectors Edition Silver with black interior


Joined: 4/18/2011
Posts: 13

    It sounds to me like you was not driving with the A/C on. When the A/C is on the fans will come on sooner and keep the temperature around your 200 but driving with the A/C off the fans turn on later. Usually the 231 -236 is where they normally come on to cool things back down to around the 220 - 226 area. This is normal with the A/C off. Kinda scary to me cause I do not like to see temperatures get that high myself either.
   As far as the car not starting, it sounds like the starter picked up heat from the engine and temporarily locked up. This too is normal on some Chevy's. That's why some of us older guys use to rig up the old Ford type solenoids and used a bypass wire or jumper on the stock solenoid and problem solved. IF that's what happened with you?  


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Re: 1988 (3/14)
 8/15/12 6:53pm
eddie20890
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lanoka harbor, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1990 L-98 white/ red/black leather interior targa top auto 1975 L48 blue/black leather interior t tops auto


Joined: 3/22/2009
Posts: 1363

corvettes usually do run at a higher temp. that is normal. maybe starter is getting weak. if it cranked but did not start i would check the coil.

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Re: 1988 (4/14)
 8/16/12 7:10am
Donald
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Indianapolis, IN - USA

Vette(s):
1988 Corvette convertable


Joined: 3/25/2012
Posts: 13

Thanks, but it did not crank or do anything. I'm thinking vapor lock as nothing has happened since. I took it out yesterday to run the temp up. After getting it to 230 I turned it off and it restarted. No problems. Still wondering?
Re: 1988 (5/14)
 8/16/12 7:16am
Donald
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Indianapolis, IN - USA

Vette(s):
1988 Corvette convertable


Joined: 3/25/2012
Posts: 13

Maybe vapor lock? Starts strong and runs great. Tried to make it do it again yesterday ran temp. to 230 turned it off and it started right up!
Re: 1988 (6/14)
 8/16/12 7:30am
SAYWHEN
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Posts: 82

Vapor lock was a carbureted issue...doesn't occur on injected engines, fuel doesn't 'boil" because of the higher fuel line pressures. A fuel or ignition problem would not cause the engine to not spin over (make no noise). Sounds like a starter problem to me also. Try running up to hot operating temperature.....then shut it off -leave the hood closed...the temperature under the hood actually rises after the engine is shut off. Many times a starter issue will show up after sitting for 10-15 minutes.
Re: 1988 (7/14)
 8/16/12 10:08am
Adams' Apple
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1985 Coupe-L98/Auto,Bright Red/Carmine. 1974 Coupe-L48/4speed, Medium Red Metallic/Black Deluxe.


Joined: 3/18/2009
Posts: 2246

I agree with saywhen....sounds like a starter issue of some sort. Could also be a problem with the anti-theft system.
When it did not start, and didn't make any noise, did you happen to notice if any of the dash lights dimmed or not?
Did it absolutely not make a click/clunk/buzz...nothing?

And, as has been said...these thing DO run hotter than you might expect, but it is totally NORMAL. Mine will run up to around 235* in the summer, with or without the A/C on, if I'm moving slow, or stopped. It will cool back down to "normal"(215* or so) once it gets moving again. Part of it is for emissions reasons, and part of it has to do wtih the design of the front body, and not really having a grill for the air to get to the radiator easily....


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Re: 1988 (8/14)
 8/17/12 7:22pm
martone_1
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Fernandina, FL - USA

Vette(s):
1985 Corvette Coupe


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Posts: 109

Starter heat soak is what it is called, If you run your car on a  warm day and shut it off when it is still quite warm the starter will not work until it cools a bit. they make a heat shield just for this problem but I have even seen folks take a coffee can and rap it around their starter sorry back when they made them out of metal, Starter heat soak is a pain and is hard on the starter so use one of the ideas here to take care of it. I have known folks to set up the ford solinoid deal. heat shield or even a gear reduction starter will work. or just let it cool off a bit before restart when you know you shut it off hot.
Re: 1988 (9/14)
 8/17/12 7:24pm
martone_1
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Fernandina, FL - USA

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1985 Corvette Coupe


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Posts: 109

Starter heat soak is what it is called, If you run your car on a  warm day and shut it off when it is still quite warm the starter will not work until it cools a bit. they make a heat shield just for this problem but I have even seen folks take a coffee can and rap it around their starter sorry back when they made them out of metal, Starter heat soak is a pain and is hard on the starter so use one of the ideas here to take care of it. I have known folks to set up the ford solinoid deal. heat shield or even a gear reduction starter will work. or just let it cool off a bit before restart when you know you shut it off hot.
Re: 1988 (10/14)
 8/17/12 10:56pm
davep85c4
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Posts: 254

88-up L98 have a Denso reduction gear starter. Quite different from the Delco we're used to that have the "hot start problems". Maybe the Denso's have problems too, but I never had trouble with my 88 during the 3 years I drove the crap out of it. A Denso can also crank the engine with a battery that would be too low to crank with a Delco.
Re: 1988 (11/14)
 8/18/12 6:03am
CaledoniaBrian
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Canada

Vette(s):
1988 Convertable


Joined: 11/3/2011
Posts: 150

Yes, your car was running a bit on the warm side, but that is normal for the corvette.....I don't like it either.  As was mentioned, this could be a VATS problem. I also own an 88 and have had this no start condition from time to time.
 
 In my case, I figure the battery was gone the first time, even though it showed good voltage, and also the alternator showed a good charge. Changed the battery and about two weeks later again..no start. Checked every where for a battery drain and found nothing. It was after doing a bit of research that I came across this VAT issue. After a bit of playing around I have now been convinced that a lot of the no starts of this area corvette is VATS.
 
Copied from anther web site:  this is good info, even if it is not your problem.
 
VATS, for reference of other members, ia an acronym for the Vehicle Anti-Theft System. Started in Corvettes model '86 thru '88. Here's info that will help with understanding of VATS and the problems you can have with it etc.

The trigger to the VATS system is the special ignition key that contains the resistor pellet, this pellet connects to the VATS module which allows it to First, Signal the ECM, then Close the starter circuit.

The ECM will not allow fuel injection or starter operation without a signal response from the VATS module. Since VATS is not connected to the alarm system, therefore is active even if if the car is left unlocked or the alarm system is defeated.

The two main components of the system are the ignition key with resistor pellet and the VATS decoder module. The pellet in the key is just a resistor, it will be one of 15 specific values. The ignition cylinder has contacts that connect between the two sides of the ignition key pellet. Wiring carries this resistance value to the VATS decoder module, where it is compared to the value stored in the module. If they match, the car starts. If they do not match, the starter circuit and fuel injectors are disabled. A timer (approximately 4 minutes) is also activated if an improper resistance is read. Each time an attempt is made during this delay period, the timer will be reset. So it is important to wait at least 4 minutes before another attempt is made.

The main problem with the system in the first three years of production was the material that the contacts of both the ignition key and ignition cylinder were made of. This material was prone to premature wear, causing poor contact, an incorrect resistance being seen by the decoder module and a no start condition.

Work Arounds were developed that would fool the decoder module. These Work Arounds bypassed the key pellet and the ignition cylinder contacts. The VATS Bypass Modules that you see in many Corvette catalogs cost anywhere from $30 - $50. However, this is a resistor that you can pick up at your local Radio Shack for under $1! You have to know what code value (1-15) to buy. That means you'll have to go to a dealer that can use their VATS Interrogator, that presents another problem doing a bypass. SEE VATS CODES AT BOTTOM OF POST!

If you take a multi-meter and measure the resistance between the metal contacts on either side of your key, you can buy a resistor of this value at any Radio Shack store. ¼ watt will do.

You then need to remove the hush panel under the steering column. Disconnect C281 (two-cavity connector at base of steering column with two black wires in the female end and one yellow and one brown wire in the male end). Your newly purchased resistor goes into the male side of this connector, so you'll need to crimp a couple of female pins to the resistor legs.

If you insist on purchasing the VATS bypass from one of the Corvette catalogs, again measure the resistance of your key pellet and compare it to the code chart to find your code. It is also possible to reprogram the PROM to ignore the VATS signal, but that is beyond the scope of this article.

THE REAL FIX
In July of 1988 a GM TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN number 88-292. This TSB includes the part number for a new ignition cylinder that has better contacts. Keys have also been updated that are slightly longer and have the better contacts. This virtually eliminates VATS problems caused by connections. You still want to keep your key clean and dry, but with the TSB competed, you should enjoy VATS problem free starting for a good long time.

VATS Key Codes and Associated resistance
Codes in OHMS

Pellet Resistance
Code Ohms
1 - 402
2 - 523
3 - 681
4 - 887
5 - 1130
6 - 1470
7 - 1870
8 - 2370
9 - 3010
10 - 3740
11 - 4570
12 - 6040
13 - 7500
14 - 9530
15 - 11800
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Re: 1988 (12/14)
 8/18/12 7:33am
davep85c4
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Posts: 254

Hmmm. I just learned something. I just read Code 46 in my Helm's Manual. It's pretty simple. If 46 is set, the VATS module is not currently sending the fuel-enable signal. Note the underline of "currently". 46 is not a history code. It only sets while the condition exists.

If you have an early VATS car, carry a paper clip. If you experienced a good crank, no start, leave the key on.  Insert paperclip in A&B.  Read the codes. If 46 is there, it's the VATS.

Doesn't get much simpler to narrow down than that.
Re: 1988 (13/14)
 8/18/12 8:06am
Donald
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Indianapolis, IN - USA

Vette(s):
1988 Corvette convertable


Joined: 3/25/2012
Posts: 13

Thank you all that responded to my problem. I believe it was a hot starter and since I wraped it I have not had a problem. I will keep all other info on the VAT in mind if the problem happens again. Thanks for all your input. You guys are better than a garage!!
Donald
Re: 1988 (14/14)
 8/18/12 5:42pm
martone_1
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Fernandina, FL - USA

Vette(s):
1985 Corvette Coupe


Joined: 4/9/2012
Posts: 109

first off. good to see that worked for you. second. sorry I don't know why my post showed up twice. wasn't trying to be rude. or anything it just showed up twice. I wonder if it will happen again this time. here we go.
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